Resolutions: visit the highest two-star Michelin and less expensive in Europe, The Oxalys
- gdf 2011 -
La newsletter della Michelin giunta questa mattina alla mia mail è quanto mai intrigante. Intrigante ed invitante, perchè indovinare una bella giornata di sole per raggiungere quota 2300 metri nel cuore delle Alpi Savoiarde e potersi sedere ad una delle tavole meno conosciute ma sicuramente più qualitative d'Europa è un piccolo progetto che andrebbe messo in programma, che sia nel periodo innvevato invernale così come nel periodo fiorito estivo. L'articolo tradotto di Emmanuel Tresmontant è riportato integralmente qui di seguito ed invita inevitabilmente a partire. Le foto sono originali di Jean Sulpice.
"A 2.300 metri d’altitudine, Val Thorens , che finora non aveva alcuna gastronomic tradition, a new era: that of the great food! So, with your skis, you can go to lunch all'Oxalys, located at the entrance door, where the young chef Jean Sulpice offers a menu of more affordable two-star French ...
Remember: only recently, the ski resorts were no man's land of food, and stay a week was synonymous with pizza, fondue and raclette at will. Fortunately, this era is over and the sad good food is now one of the priorities of the skiers.
So, Val Thorens is school until 2002, it was almost impossible to eat a decent meal, and (for once!) That you could not approve the conduct of the Dutch people who never travel without carrying food ... Since then, a young chef has decided to give a new impetus to Station: Jean Sulpice is .
This Savoyard pure and hard, that he never moves without a knife in his pocket, he first rose to the challenge that places the altitude: 2,300 meters, with roads blocked by snow and regularly temperatures can drop below 18 degrees, not cooking as downstream.
Get the scallops or Britain diamonds involves considerable logistics. The cooking times are longer, the bread and the food dries more quickly on contact with air (with low humidity), and even the same wine can taste different, such as red, they age rapidly, and champagne , whose bubbles are more vigorous and purposes (which is quite an advantage!) The merit of Jean Sulpice, therefore, is to forget all these contingencies. You go to eat with him, with skis on their feet, as if nothing had happened, "when it is decided that the mountain '...
With two stars in Michelin Guide and a menu € 50 that places it among the most affordable gourmet restaurants of France, Jean Sulpice has won his bet. You go to eat with him in winter, in full season, but even in summer, returning from an excursion.
On the culinary Jean Sulpice stands out above all for his skill in cooking and seasoning. Its strength lies in having assimilated the canons of French cuisine, with Pierre Marin , the chef star of ' Auberge Lamartine, to Le Bourget-du-Lac . " There I learned to skin a rabbit for cooking à la royale (with stuffing and brasata al vino), a sfilettare i pesci del lago, a preparare i gamberi à la nage (serviti con il loro brodo di cottura), il bollito, la blanquette (carne a pezzetti cotta in umido con salsa bianca), la terrina di foie gras, i fondi di cottura… Non si può esser creativi senza avere le basi della cucina. »
A 18 anni, lo choc culturale: ancor prima di ottenere il suo diploma C.A.P. ( Certficato di Attitudine professionale ), comincia a lavorare da Marc Veyrat dove scopre una cucina strabiliante che non somiglia a nulla di ciò che conosceva. Succhi miscelati, spume preparate trap and with infusions of wild plants ... "I felt lost, it took me six months to adapt! But in the end, I was 5 years . A turning point in my life. "Veryat For Marc, Jean Sulpice was equipped with a surprising maturity, given his age," as a boy he met in his short career. "
dishes absolutely Do not miss all'Oxalys? Without doubt, the pigeon de foie gras en croûte avec sa Poêlée safranée oubliés et son jus de légumes à la Réglisse (pigeon-crusted foie gras with sauteed vegetables and saffron old e succo alla liquirizia): la cottura e il condimento sono esemplari, l’armonia dei sapori è stupefacente! Lo chevreuil rôti au foin et jus de cacao (capriolo arrosto al fieno e succo di cacao) vale anch’esso il viaggio: stufata, la cacciagione resta tenera nel mezzo e il tocco di cacao, diluito in salsa al porto, conferisce una delicata punta di amarezza e rotondità.
Alcuni piatti hanno fatto la reputazione di Jean e sono presenti nel menù tutto l’anno, come ad esempio la sua velouté de châtaignes en chaud-froid de parmesan (vellutata di castagne in salsa chaud-froid di parmigiano, preparata a caldo but served cold): a light and refreshing soup scented with black truffle. The aroma of Parmesan gives lightness and a milky sweetness that contrasts with the consistency of thick soup with chestnuts. A delight.
In terms of dessert, Jean Sulpice has created one of which he is most proud of: it is an apple whose skin has been replaced by a coque de meringue croquante (a shell of crunchy meringue) and perfectly spherical . Sinking inside the spoon, there are pieces of Confites pommes au miel (candied apples and honey), other fresh pieces of chantilly à parfumée anthesis (Cream montataprofumata anthesis, a concentrated extract of licorice flavored with aniseed) and glazes au miel (honey ice cream) ... A set that combines explosive acidity and sweetness.
"never forsake my native Savoy," said Jean Sulpice, who loves to go alone to go to source from small producers. The food, among other things, pays homage to the finest products of the region: the blue cheese of Termignon of Marcel BANTINE , fish and shrimp caught from Lake Geneva Eric Jacquier , Honey mountain Michel Mathiez , the bread flour Triève of Duprat (a Menuires), plants dried Claude Benoit and Philippe Durand (elder flowers that grow organically, and woodruff genepy ).
Magalì , wife of Jean Sulpice and former sommelier Marc Veyrat, is - what she - in charge of wine lists. And it is to you that I have a real discovery: the vins de pays d'Allobrogia of Brice Omont, products Cevins, not far from Albertville. Minerality of wines from the exceptional blend beautifully with the kitchen of Jean Sulpice!
"A chef must also engage and think of the future. This is why I cook every day for the canteen of the nest of Val Thorens and port to the children of good food. "The success of this initiative over the odds, since children in the evening, refusing to eat what they cook their parents ... and push them to take cooking classes by my Jean! "This is so as it prepares a new generation of gourmet."
The Oxalys
Val Thorens (Savoie)
Tel: + 33 (0)4 79 00 12 00
- gdf -